I've been to Oeschinensee twice, and it wasn't enough. Once in summer, enveloped in grey cloud, and a second time in January, under a beautiful blue sky. It wasn't enough. I got soaked to the skin in the rain on the way back to Kandersteg station, and I wanted to go back. I trudged through the snow trail and ended up in what I can only describe as a real-life game of frogger over the ski-runs, and I wanted to go back.
Oeschinensee (or Oeschinen Lake, if, err… you're a new website trying to hit all your SEO bases) is a natural cathedral. The cliff walls soar up from the lake in a way that (cliché, I know) a photograph can't even comprehend never mind describe, with the peaks of the Blüemlisalp hanging high above. In the winter, the cliffs still soar but the lake disappears under the ice and snow. It's no surprise that this is one of the best places to glimpse into the Jungfrau Aletsch world heritage site.
It's not even a challenging place to get to - or at least, it isn't supposed to be. Arriving at the pretty mountain town of Kandersteg on the train (you can drive, but why would you?) it's a short meander through the town to the gondola lift which takes you up to Oeschinen at 1682m. The lake is a little below this at 1578m and there's a good path that winds gently down through the woodland. There's also a little electric cart to ferry (at a price) those with more limited mobility to the berghaus at the lake and back. Neither of these things are true in winter, where the well-cut path through the snow is nonetheless quite a trudge, and leaves you in a real-life game of frogger as it crosses the ski runs. There's no real gradient though so it's well within the capabilities of anyone of moderate fitness and a half-decent pair of boots or even approach shoes.
In summer, there are range of high-level hiking trails to suit all ability levels, including the long hike up to the Blüemlisalphütte at 2840m, which I'd love to check out on a return visit in better weather and more time.
The trails aren't an option in winter but you do have the option of an even more unusual experience - an ice walk trail across the frozen lake. I gave this a go, before getting (literally) cold feet and retreating. I was well dressed for a Swiss winter but walking on a frozen lake required at least one extra pair of socks I hadn't prepared for!
Two visits wasn’t enough for me. I want to go back.
